Mary Brannen, Ad Ops Manager recently spent a week in the Galapagos on a tour run by our sister company, International Expeditions. For the next few days, enjoy segments from her trip journal about this once in a lifetime opportunity to get up close and personal with nature.

Day One - July 30^th

It's funny - another M/V Evolution passenger and I were talking about how many people had asked us "Have you been to the Galapagos before?" when we mentioned (bragged about) our upcoming trip. These islands are  so remote and untouched that it strikes me as a rare treat to ever see the Galapagos once, much less make multiple return journeys!

They aren't a location, they are a destination. And thanks to International Expeditions, I got to visit this once-in-a-lifetime destination.

Once we landed in the Galapagos -- after the smoothest flight ever thanks to AeroGal -- it was obvious how few people really get to come here. San Cristóbal Island's airport couldn't accommodate a large influx of people.  The airport isn't even enclosed fully. I guess that's a testament to the consistently nice weather.

The airport doesn't have separate arrival and departure gates. It is just a large area with benches and a roof. No, clearly this is not a place that accommodates huge groups of vacationers.

Yes, this is the most remote place I've ever been. I can tell that already.

We took a quick bus trip to a dock where we could board the pangas. Pangas are these small, flat rubber excursion boats that can navigate very shallow water -- perfect for taking us out to where the M/V Evolution is docked in the harbor.

Just getting to the pangas requires passing by sea lions lounging on steps. Amazing how close the animals come without any fear! We board the M/V Evolution and are immediately given blackberry smoothies to drink while Boli (the naturalist) went over the rules. He stressed how conservation and preservation is important -- we don't want to disturb the ecology of the islands by stomping around, littering and taking over the way people tend to do on vacation. This gave the crew time to sort our luggage and take it to our rooms.

We took a short nap before the required safety drill. I believe this is necessary for any ship, but it didn't take long since there are less than 30 passengers aboard the M/V Evolution. After that, at 3:30, we took the pangas to the shore. Alex (the other naturalist) guided us along the beach to see male sea lions resting all over the place. We also saw blue-footed boobies, yellow warblers and so many other birds that I can't begin to name them all! Something like a semi plover balm? That sounds odd. There are so many species of birds here, I can't keep up! Two hours later we boarded the pangas again.

We got drinks and snacks on the upper deck, so we were drinking and eating al fresco. Dining outside; watching the sun set over the ocean -- it complemented my berry smoothie nicely. The Evolution cruised around Kicker Rock, a distinctive rock formation that was created by one volcano. We then enjoy an explanation of what to expect tomorrow. I look forward to seeing the waved albatross and the blue-footed booby mating dance.

Andrew and I had a very nice dinner with the Beesons from Delaware. Such a sweet family -- their son is headed to college so this is one final family trip before he leaves the nest. (Yes; that bird/nest pun was on purpose!)  After that, we savored a quick look at the stars. Living in the city, I forget how many stars there are in the night sky....once you are away from light pollution! Now going to bed.

 

Day 2 - July 31^st

We were woken up at 6:45 by music and announcements ("Good Morning, Good Morning, Good Morning!") which isn't too bad since that is really 7:45 back home. That's later than I sleep in on a typical workday. We ate breakfast al fresco and got ready to depart at 8 AM. We arrived ashore Espanola (Hood) Island. The Islands have multiple names -- both Spanish and British names.

We saw our first Sally Lightfoot crabs and marine iguanas. Espanola is the oldest, flattest island of all in the archipelago. There were lava lizards and mocking birds. We sat by a natural blow-hole that shoots water 50 ft into the air! Blue-footed boobies were on our walking path, and we saw waved albatross parents and babies. The waved albatross was my favorite...except when we were watching this adorable baby albatross; it was wandering away from its parent and getting to close to another set of waved albatross parents protecting their young. They started attacking the wandering baby -- and its parent did nothing to stop them. The baby didn't learn to walk away, so they kept attacking. It is likely that they will kill the young albatross. Andrew kept singing the Lion King's "Circle of Life" to make me feel better. He's right -- this is how nature is. We walked away so we don't know for sure.

Kitty (the guest lecturer) made a small presentation on how the animals arrived in the archipelago. Somehow it wasn't quite how I thought, which made the lecture all the more interesting. A lot of species floated over or swam from South America. Those that adapted/mutated once they got here are the ones that survived.

Then we went snorkeling -- my favorite activity so far! We were split up so it was a small group to swim with the sea lions! I nearly touched them! They would swim circles and twists around us -- especially if we mimicked their movements. Sea lions will twirl if you twirl. The ocean is cold but the "shorty" wet suits which International Expeditions provides make all the difference.

We came back to the Evolution to drop off our snorkeling gear only to turn around right away to head to the beach. It was really private -- just us and sea lions. I must have taken 40 pictures on this beach alone!

Boli is now telling us what to expect for tomorrow -- we are in the "library" again, where Kitty gave her presentation earlier. Tomorrow we land in Santa Cruz! But for tonight, we have dinner, and then we rest and relax. Why does swimming make me so tired?

One of the best parts of my job is reading about amazing places all day, but at the same time, the countless awesome trips give you serious cabin fever and an incredible itch to experience the world. As an adventure enthusiast, with each tour description I came across, it was mentally added to the travel bucket list, but one stopped me in my tracks so much I just had to do it right now- the iExplore Viking Challenge, a week of intensive outdoor activities that would make even Erik the Red jealous. This itinerary has everything- glacier climbing, white water rafting, hiking, horseback riding, ATVs, and a treasure hunt that upon completion, you earn an official Viking certificate.  Based in Reykjavik, a modern European New Orleans, here's a recap of my very excellent adventure in which Iceland was took by storm:

Glacier Climbing- Called the Blue Ice Tour; glacier climbing was what I was most excited about, given that we're based in the flatlands of Chicago. After a two hour drive to the countryside, we strapped on our crampons, essentially scary strong spikes that attach to your hiking boots and donned an ice pick as  we set off to conquer Sólheimajökull, part of Mýrdalsjökull glacier (try saying that ten times fast). A magnificent rugged, raw and ever changing cliff of ancient frozen water and ash- the scenery is a beautiful black and white landscape as the ice blends into the volcanic remains. With ever changing crevasses, ice formations, sink holes and ridges no two treks are alike and each group has the pleasure of being part of history as the glacier changes shape right before your very eyes. The climb was fairly easy once you gained your footing on the spikes and it's fairly flat maneuvering around springs. When we reached a solid ice wall, we were given instructions on how to scale the frozen tundra with ice axes and safety lines and then rappel down. The climb was exhilarating as we gingerly tested the axes with every step up to see if they would hold our weight. Our guides were fantastic, giving us the history of the volcanoes, repeating the names slow enough we actually had a chance to understand them and setting a pace that everyone could keep up with. The only casualty? My yoga pants which got a spike through the bottom of them.

White Water Rafting- When they called it arctic river rafting, they weren't exaggerating. Iceland in August is the warmest time of the year, but it is by no means warm. At barely 50 degrees, the winds are brutal, chilly and make city exploring cold, but paddling freezing, and while we were wearing wetsuits, they only helped to an extent. Not going to let weather stop us, we had a great time charging down the Hvítá River ("White River") at the base of Drumboddsstaðir aka Drumbó (I think they shorten all the names for Americans) - even stopping to do al little cliff jumping from the rocks.  While the rapids were only class 2.5, other areas in northern Iceland offer a more challenging path for the true river avenger, but we played games with our raft mates, enjoying trying to toss one another into the icy waters.

The Golden Circle- The Golden Circle is the name given to a 190 mile (300 kilometer) circular route which encompasses many of Iceland's most famous landmarks, including Geysir, the world famous hot springs, the Gullfoss waterfall and Þingvellir national park. Housed in the geothermal area in Haukadalur, the original Geysir from which the English word is derived, is a fascinating place where the ground gurgles, bubbles and super heated water escapes from the ground with enormous force. Gullfoss is an amazing sight, a double waterfall where the water rushes down over three steps of lava layers with breathtaking power and grandeur. Sidewise it pales in comparison to Niagara Falls, but the double water formation the real splendour. The day ended with a stop at Þingvellir national park, a UNESCO world heritage site and the original birthplace of the oldest existing parliament in the world. With greenery much like Northern Ireland, it's where the great tectonic plates of North America and Europe meet and the rift valley between them is clearly visible.

ATVs- Touted as a "trip to the moon," this lava rock laden setting takes you on a rough and tumble journey around the tip of the Reykjanes peninsula, the Reykjanes light house and parts of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge that lies between the continents of North America and Europe, as well as the beach of Sandvík, a black sand beach where Clint Eastwood filmed Flags of Our Fathers. The ATV portion of the trip was what surprised me the most, as the amount of arm strength needed to physically keep the monstrous vehicles on some sort of path was taxing as you bounce through the rock patches. Maybe being too used to automatic cars in America, this definately wasn't a flip a switch and go ride as your hands have to be manning the gas and the brakes simultaneously at all times to stay on track. 

The Blue Lagoon- The blue lagoon is a natural wonder, a geothermal  seawater spa and one of Conde Nast's top 10 medical spas in the world. The water temperature is  98-102°F and coupled with the brisk outdoors, it's a lovely contrast between the hot water and cool air. Offering in water massages, saunas, steam rooms,  free mud masks, and amazing algae/ lava masks that are sold frozen from the swim-up bar and melt in the water, it's impossible not to feel rejuvenated here. The  locker room is a site in itself often compared as a scene out of Star Trek with crazy high tech wristbands that open the lockers and serve as a charge account for anything you buy during your visit.

Hot Springs Hike- Leaving from the outskirts of the town of Hveragerði, an area ripe with hot

springs and flowers, this halfday hike was one of the most challenging moments of the trip surprisingly as breathing in high altitude was unexpected  in the beautiful valley of Reykjadalur. Up there hot water rushes down the slopes of Hellisheiði mountain range and creates the ideal place to relax in an untouched natural hot stream, which we reached by fording the stream Oregon trail style. The valley also has an amazing abundance of geothermal springs and you will witness everything from small gurgling melting pots to vibrant super heated pools of water. Marvel at the view from above as you gaze for miles into the greenery.

Horseback Riding- Íshestar Riding Center in Hafnarfjörður is an adventurous ride ideal for beginners into the lava fields surrounding the Mt. Helgafell volcano. View Kaldársel sheep and Lake Hvaleyrarvatn along the beautiful hillside setting. Among more lava fields, the beautiful Bláfjöll Mountains set the background for my first time going any faster than a mere walk when riding a horse. Learning to trot/gallop on Icelandic horses put us at ease as they were so smart they knew their own route home it was like cruising on autopilot (thank you Tweety). Icelandic horses are some of the most coveted in the world, though shorter and a bit stockier in appearance, they are some of the most good natured, versatile and agile in the world, knowing more than the standard trot, gallop and walk, but also adding two additional commands, the tölt and the flying pace, well known in the international racing world.

Whale Watching- It wouldn't be a trip to an island (though not your typical beach resort), without at least one excursion on a ship. We boarded the the Elding Whale Watching Company vessel with a few other families and took to the seas. The chilliest outing with the wind whipping around as the boat picked up speed, we kept our eyes peeled for the commonly sighted minke whales, white-beaked dolphins, porpoises and humpback whales. Also native to the area are gannets, puffins, guillemots, cormorants, gulls, kittiwakes, and arctic terns, though we were dismayed that the puffins had already migrated south for the winter. We saw a few fleeting glances of whales, but the best part of the journey was the hot chocolate to warm us up and just enjoying the 23 hours of sunlight a day Iceland gets in their summer.

Treasure Hunt- The final step to our Viking certificate was a series of trivia questions and

word puzzle about Reykavik and the Icelandic language. I won't spoil it too much if you do decide to go on the challenge yourself, but it was definitely hard- even google was challenged.

Iceland is a fascinating place as it is literally the mid-point between where America and Europe split in the continental divide, and the cultural influences of both sides are abundant. From their love of hamburgers and hot dogs to the European style of houses, it's a mish mash of the cultures and possibly the best elements of the two. It's a unique town with a clash of modern buildings, ancient mythology, city-life and the great outdoors. This trip had it all; stunning natural beauty, interesting history, amazing geological wonders and should be on anyone's bucket list.

Canoeing and kayaking are two sports under the umbrella term of paddling. Not for the faint of heart, these beloved water sports are as invigorating and as challenging as you make them. Some of the world's most beautiful scenery can be viewed the bow of a boat, be it floating down a river or on the open sea.  But don't limit your watery adventures to the conventional cruise ship.  Canoeing and kayaking allow you to immerse yourself in your surroundings more than you can from an observation deck, and they provide many people with a great sense of gratification.  If you are looking to explore the outdoors--a tranquil meander down a river, a thrilling race through rapids, or somewhere in between, then your best bet is to gear up for a canoeing or kayaking trip.  Domestic and abroad, there are many destinations that are bound to take your breath away.  Here are some of the world's best places to paddle, regardless of whether you are a novice or an expert. 

Zambezi River, Southern Africa

If you are looking for a canoe expedition that doubles as that African safari you've always been meaning to do, then the Zambezi River in Southern Africa is the destination for you.  While we do not recommend you do it alone--for hippos are not as friendly as they appear--there are many options for guided trips along both the Upper and Lower Zambezi.  The Upper Zambezi provides the adventurous with the opportunity to try their hand at mild rapids, and offers the occasional glimpse at the white rhino, an endangered species.  The Lower Zambezi Valley is home to Mana Pools National Park, one of the best places in Africa for viewing game such as elephants and black rhinos.  If you are up for a challenge, why not do both sections?

Dordogne River, France

For those who are looking for history, scenery, and relaxation, look no further than the Dordogne River in France.  Flowing through the southwestern region of the country, this river is wide and slow moving, making it the perfect way to enjoy the countryside and save the adrenaline for another day.  There are several affordable places to rent canoes and kayaks close to the river, as well as many campsites along the shore.  Your float down the majestic river will take you past medieval castles and Gallo Roman ruins, straight through the heart of the countryside.  Don't expect to have the river to yourself, as this is a popular tourist attraction.  For more privacy, consider taking a trip in the spring or the autumn.  Chances are that the weather will still be beautiful.

Coastal Thailand

A great way to experience Thailand is from the water.  Float around Phang Nga Bay exploring the "hongs", or limestone caves, from the comfort of a kayak or a sea canoe.  The hongs are a system of collapsed caves that have become home to a diverse array of wildlife including monkeys and birds.  Phang Nga Bay is a popular tourist destination, and kayaking tours are among the most popular activities in the region.  To avoid the crowds, you may want to consider going to Ang Thong National Marine Park, an archipelago of over 40 islands around which you can paddle, fish, and snorkel to your heart's content.  The kayak is the perfect vehicle for delving into the heart of the reserve.  

Broken Group Islands, Vancouver, British Columbia

If a tropical trip does not tickle your fancy, perhaps the Broken Group Islands of Vancouver, British Columbia will.  Not only are these islets and coves ideal for spotting the best of North American wildlife--think bald eagles, grizzly bears, and orca whales-- they are also remarkably peaceful and undeveloped.  Camp along the sandy shorelines, explore caves, and put your mind at ease.  The islands are favorable for canoeing and kayaking because they are largely protected from the elements of the open ocean.  Many choose to explore the islands with a guide, but it is also navigable alone.  Expect to share the experience with a few scuba divers, some sailboats, and a handful of sea otters and porpoises. 

Ha'apai Islands, Tonga

If you truly want to leave the world behind, then head to the South Pacific.  You will find that sea kayaking around the Ha'apai Islands of Tonga will be the perfect getaway.  Referred to as the "sea kayaker's dream," these islands are truly off the beaten path.  Explore the coral reefs and secluded beaches while paddling through schools of colorful fish.  If your timing is right, you may even cross paths with a humpback whale, which migrate here annually for mating and calving season.  You will probably meet some Ha'apai islanders, who are known as the friendliest people in all of Tonga.  Float past towering volcanoes and through secret lagoons to capture the island vibe. 

by Dorothy MacAusland, Contributing Author

Sustainable tourism is the act of limiting travel's harmful impacts on the environment and encouraging positive benefits to the community through job creation or service projects. With eco-consciousness being more of a buzz word than ever, creating a positive impact on the land encourages locals to want more and more visitors to explore their culture. By default, the travel industry is hard on the environment in terms of energy efficiency, recycling and water usage required for airlines and tours to operate.  Both industry businesses and individual travelers can do their part to help protect our world so everyone can appreciate it.

What is sustainable travel?

Sustainable travel means taking responsibility for your actions to any place you visit. Treating the land like it's your own backyard. This is a little different than ecotourism which is the travel to fragile and protected areas so as not to destroy a natural world wonder. The Galapagos is a prime example, as they only allow a small number of people on the island at a time to preserve unique and endangered species of flora and fauna once made famous by Darwin. Voluntoursim is another subset of this (also called volunteer travel or vacanteerism) which is a trip that involves some type of volunteer or charity work. Popular ones include language tutoring, area cleanups, wildlife conservation and foreign medical assistance.

There are numerous non-profit organizations dedicated to responsible travel. One, the Center for Responsible Travel uses policy-oriented research to improve the social and environmental impacts of travel and to brainstorm ways to alleviate poverty and biodiversity conservation.

How do I lessen my impact?

Be conscientious. Recycle whenever possible. Only work with tour operators who care about their environmental footprint and commit to sustainable development. Appreciate cultures and respect other customs. Basically do your part to be a global citizen, pay it forward.

Sustainable Destinations

China- Play with children and pandas in the historical city of Beijing. After the earthquake, 63 captive pandas in Wolong Nature Reserve have been cared for at the Ya'an Panda Breeding Center. You'll help feed and clean them and participate in behavioral research.

Costa Rica- Participate in a variety of service projects. Take part in a tree-planting project to offset CO2 emissions, work in the greenhouse or work with local families in the town on their farms.

Thailand- Some of the many exciting opportunities include mangrove restoration, teaching English or share your skills or hobbies with villagers.