Day 3 - August 1^st

Santa Cruz today. This will probably be my favorite day of the whole trip because it is the day we saw giant tortoises! First thing was a trip to the Charles Darwin Research Station -- I thought that was supposed to be a museum, but clearly not. It had a few enclosed buildings, but otherwise it looks more like a zoo with different areas used to raise tortoises. This is so they can make sure the tortoises can grow large enough to fight off predators (feral pigs, goats, fire ants, etc) once they are released back onto the islands.

After the Darwin Station we rode buses to the highlands. It is so much greener up north on the slopes of this shield volcano.  We walked around a sink hole and saw so many birds -- once again I can't name them. I know we saw finches though!

We bused over to this private property for lunch -- and saw tons of giant tortoises in their natural habitat! The crew brought us lunch there (again delicious) so we could stay on the island for the whole day. Everyone wandered around taking pictures with tortoises. They are bigger than me. There was one who loved to be fake-tickled under its chin -- you didn't really touch the tortoise, just waved your fingers near its neck. It reminded me of a cat stretching out so you can pet it. Only a cat that is four feet tall!

We drove back to the lowlands to taste some locally-grown coffee (very very strong) and the sugarcane juice (literally sugar water) in Puerto Ayora. We were able to also taste a really disgusting moonshine made from sugarcane.  I guess this is the only hard alcohol made on the island... and it tastes worse than tequila.

We spent a little time exploring the town. The locals I ran into knew very little English, so I got to pathetically say "Cuanto cuesta?" while searching for a Panama hat. I still don't think I'm saying it right.

And we bought Club beer, a favorite Ecuadorian brew. We drank those outside near the dock. Andrew played hacky sack which seemed to surprise the locals. Maybe they've never seen someone do that before. The local men played volleyball nearby, only they use a hard soccer ball. A few women watch, but it is mostly men.

Once we returned to the Evolution, Sheri and Pat (fellow passengers) brought out mini-glowstick bracelets.  We were on the upper deck near the bar, so we made a huge circle of the deck furniture. I spent most of my time chatting with David Jr. from Salt Lake City. Truly, he's like David the 5^th or something but since it was just him and his dad on board, it was easier to just say David Jr. or refer to them as the Davids. I'm surprised he is only 16.

Dinner was eaten outdoors again -- such a nice option. Even if it is dark, seeing the birds flying around the boat is interesting. These birds only hunt at night -- scientists believe they use echo-location to find their food. Kitty explained to us more details about them later. I was asleep before 10PM!

 

Day 4 - August 2^nd

After eating breakfast with Sheri, Pat and Mikhail, we boarded our pangas to head to a black-sand beach. We hiked for two hours, seeing the baby fur seals (although technically, they are sea-lions and are just misnamed. Sea lions have ears.) We saw more crabs, herons, marine iguanas, etc.

Snorkeling came next; this was entered from the shore so that was different. Alex directed us, using hand signals so we can understand what he is pointing out. We saw a sea turtle, a ray, beautiful sea stars and a white-tipped shark.  Afterwards we returned to the Evolution, ate three types of ceviche and enjoyed a power siesta.

In the afternoon we snorkeled again. This time we went out with Boli as our guide. We snorkeled around Pinnacle Rock , hoping to spot Galapagos penguins. Sadly, the penguins must have eaten already since they had no desire to join us in the cold ocean. We saw them up close on the rock shoreline. We also swam with a ton of sardines, schools of fish that avoid you just at the last second. I'm the only one to witness the blue-footed booby dive for fish. It dove less than four feet away from me, so that was scary.

I was too tired from the second snorkeling trip to do the following hike, so I opted for the panga ride. I'm glad I went on the panga instead since I was able to see the penguins swimming and hunting. They darted around the panga so close that I know we couldn't have gotten so close to them while snorkeling. Too bad they were too fast for my camera! We saw pelicans diving for food and noddy birds that would attack them shortly after the pelicans got a fish -- they steal the fish instead of getting

their own. There was a blue plastic bin floating on the beach, so we went to go get it. It was labeled from some careless cruise ship. Tyler hopped off the panga to grab it -- only we couldn't get the panga back into the water because of the waves. It was fun and funny more than anything....all of us got wet in the process of getting ourselves back into the ocean.

Back to the Evolution, showering once again, only to head back to the upper deck to drink and snack. There's a lot of drinking and snacking in between our excursions. Right now I am drinking a peach/guava juice courtesy of Antonio the bartender. It is really good. All the food has been quite tasty -- I'm beginning to think I'm going to come back 10 pounds heavier than when I left...

 

Day 5 - August 3^rd

I didn't sleep well at all during the night. I figured I'd sleep in during the 8 AM morning hike, and join everyone again to snorkel later in the day. Since I still felt under the weather I found our doctor Erika. It's nice that there is a doctor onboard. Andrew joined me on the upper deck where I rested in the sun (and got fresh air)

I figured I could handle the one hour hike after that so at least I could see Genovesa Island a bit. Alex led this hike, although technically we didn't go very far. We remained around the shoreline since that is where most of the birds nest. I took a million photos of red-footed and blue-footed boobies.

I slept so well. I'm excited to start a new day!

Mary Brannen, Ad Ops Manager recently spent a week in the Galapagos on a tour run by our sister company, International Expeditions. For the next few days, enjoy segments from her trip journal about this once in a lifetime opportunity to get up close and personal with nature.

Day One - July 30^th

It's funny - another M/V Evolution passenger and I were talking about how many people had asked us "Have you been to the Galapagos before?" when we mentioned (bragged about) our upcoming trip. These islands are  so remote and untouched that it strikes me as a rare treat to ever see the Galapagos once, much less make multiple return journeys!

They aren't a location, they are a destination. And thanks to International Expeditions, I got to visit this once-in-a-lifetime destination.

Once we landed in the Galapagos -- after the smoothest flight ever thanks to AeroGal -- it was obvious how few people really get to come here. San Cristóbal Island's airport couldn't accommodate a large influx of people.  The airport isn't even enclosed fully. I guess that's a testament to the consistently nice weather.

The airport doesn't have separate arrival and departure gates. It is just a large area with benches and a roof. No, clearly this is not a place that accommodates huge groups of vacationers.

Yes, this is the most remote place I've ever been. I can tell that already.

We took a quick bus trip to a dock where we could board the pangas. Pangas are these small, flat rubber excursion boats that can navigate very shallow water -- perfect for taking us out to where the M/V Evolution is docked in the harbor.

Just getting to the pangas requires passing by sea lions lounging on steps. Amazing how close the animals come without any fear! We board the M/V Evolution and are immediately given blackberry smoothies to drink while Boli (the naturalist) went over the rules. He stressed how conservation and preservation is important -- we don't want to disturb the ecology of the islands by stomping around, littering and taking over the way people tend to do on vacation. This gave the crew time to sort our luggage and take it to our rooms.

We took a short nap before the required safety drill. I believe this is necessary for any ship, but it didn't take long since there are less than 30 passengers aboard the M/V Evolution. After that, at 3:30, we took the pangas to the shore. Alex (the other naturalist) guided us along the beach to see male sea lions resting all over the place. We also saw blue-footed boobies, yellow warblers and so many other birds that I can't begin to name them all! Something like a semi plover balm? That sounds odd. There are so many species of birds here, I can't keep up! Two hours later we boarded the pangas again.

We got drinks and snacks on the upper deck, so we were drinking and eating al fresco. Dining outside; watching the sun set over the ocean -- it complemented my berry smoothie nicely. The Evolution cruised around Kicker Rock, a distinctive rock formation that was created by one volcano. We then enjoy an explanation of what to expect tomorrow. I look forward to seeing the waved albatross and the blue-footed booby mating dance.

Andrew and I had a very nice dinner with the Beesons from Delaware. Such a sweet family -- their son is headed to college so this is one final family trip before he leaves the nest. (Yes; that bird/nest pun was on purpose!)  After that, we savored a quick look at the stars. Living in the city, I forget how many stars there are in the night sky....once you are away from light pollution! Now going to bed.

 

Day 2 - July 31^st

We were woken up at 6:45 by music and announcements ("Good Morning, Good Morning, Good Morning!") which isn't too bad since that is really 7:45 back home. That's later than I sleep in on a typical workday. We ate breakfast al fresco and got ready to depart at 8 AM. We arrived ashore Espanola (Hood) Island. The Islands have multiple names -- both Spanish and British names.

We saw our first Sally Lightfoot crabs and marine iguanas. Espanola is the oldest, flattest island of all in the archipelago. There were lava lizards and mocking birds. We sat by a natural blow-hole that shoots water 50 ft into the air! Blue-footed boobies were on our walking path, and we saw waved albatross parents and babies. The waved albatross was my favorite...except when we were watching this adorable baby albatross; it was wandering away from its parent and getting to close to another set of waved albatross parents protecting their young. They started attacking the wandering baby -- and its parent did nothing to stop them. The baby didn't learn to walk away, so they kept attacking. It is likely that they will kill the young albatross. Andrew kept singing the Lion King's "Circle of Life" to make me feel better. He's right -- this is how nature is. We walked away so we don't know for sure.

Kitty (the guest lecturer) made a small presentation on how the animals arrived in the archipelago. Somehow it wasn't quite how I thought, which made the lecture all the more interesting. A lot of species floated over or swam from South America. Those that adapted/mutated once they got here are the ones that survived.

Then we went snorkeling -- my favorite activity so far! We were split up so it was a small group to swim with the sea lions! I nearly touched them! They would swim circles and twists around us -- especially if we mimicked their movements. Sea lions will twirl if you twirl. The ocean is cold but the "shorty" wet suits which International Expeditions provides make all the difference.

We came back to the Evolution to drop off our snorkeling gear only to turn around right away to head to the beach. It was really private -- just us and sea lions. I must have taken 40 pictures on this beach alone!

Boli is now telling us what to expect for tomorrow -- we are in the "library" again, where Kitty gave her presentation earlier. Tomorrow we land in Santa Cruz! But for tonight, we have dinner, and then we rest and relax. Why does swimming make me so tired?

In the words of our winning entry: Some destinations are made greater by virtue of the journey to them; some stand on their own. Without any surprise, we had hundreds of entries to share the world's greatest travel secret as the globe is an endless backyard to be explored, but our first and second place winners had something special to share. Below are their entries, take note and add these to your bucket list!

First Place- Winner of a Trip for Two to Morocco
Heaven on Earth | Italy's Amalfi Coast- Steve and Sheree Smith

This feels like the end of the world.

Some destinations are made greater by virtue of the journey to them; some stand on their own. The Amalfi Coast does both.

From Rome's crowded Termini station it is less than one and a half hours to gritty Naples via the ultra high-speed Frecciarossa. After arriving, an hour on the delightfully named Circumvesuviana will take you around the Bay of Naples, past ancient Pompey and Mount Vesuvius, and into Sorrento, where famous Capri lies just off the coast. From there, a bus around the backside of Sorrento's little peninsula delivers a clifftop throat-in-your chest drive to your destination.

Amalfi Tip 1: Travel light. Really light, if you're not renting a car. Positano is the most vertical town you'll ever visit. We stowed most of our gear in Rome and came with only a backpack each, and we were glad we did. Toting multiple heavy bags is a major undertaking here, and those we saw doing it had the only sad faces in the town.

And what a town it is. The Via Marconi splits off the main coast road and dives through a series of switchbacks from cliff top to shore before snaking back again to rejoin the road at the far side of the village. Scattered amid this is the town itself, pastel-hued and hugging the side of the mountain as it plunges into the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Rock, sky, sea, all combine for sensory overload as landscape completely overwhelms you. We've not seen all the beautiful places in the world by a longshot, but we've seen a few. Nothing else we've ever experienced produced the 'what I am seeing can't possibly real' sensation that remained until the moment we left.

Amalfi Tip 2: We agonized over which place to book for weeks, knowing that we were willing to pay a few euros extra to be sure we had a room with a view. We discovered that every room in Positano has a better view than pretty much any other room on earth and the differences are only a matter of degree. Generally, higher is better, but otherwise don't sweat it.

What should you do in Positano? Not much, hopefully. Stroll, wander, and just be, letting the explosive panorama soak in. You'll always be walking up or down, either along the slope of the road or on one of the innumerable sets of vertical steps. For the dedicated hiker there is the sentiero degli dei, or Footpath of Gods, north of the village which brings wild views even more spectacular than those in Positano itself. Keep an eye out for the ubiquitous lemon trees, and remind yourself that no trip to Amalfi is complete without sampling (and bringing back) some of the excellent limoncello.

In the other direction, take the 500 steps down to the little beach, Spiaggia Grande, which is the hub of Positano. From here, you can enjoy the scenery and grab a boat for a day trip to Capri, if so inclined. Look to your right into the sea and you will see the three Li Galli, islands traditionally identified as the home of the Sirens, strange creatures of Greek mythology whose beautiful singing lured sailors to their deaths on the rocks.

Amalfi Tip 3: From Spiaggia Grande, take the footpath to the left to the more secluded and laid back Fornillo beach.

Above the beach, consider a couple of keepsakes to bring home. Positano is famous for custom leather sandals, made to order on the spot. While you wait for them to be done, browse the galleries and see the multitude of attempts to capture the sublime beauty of this place. Always negotiate, and take your favorite back for an indelible memory.

Stop in at the Delikatessen Positano and get all you need for a picnic lunch. We lounged on our terrace enjoying a bottle of wine and a life-changing Caprese sandwich, feeling we'd never had a better meal. Linger over drinks in the garden at the Hotel Palazzo Murat, and try dinner at Lo Guarracino as night falls and the lights of the village sprinkle the cliffs.

Amalfi Tip 4: Travel during the shoulder season. We were there in September and were rewarded with lighter crowds, mild days, and perfect cool nights.

When your stay is over, take the ferry around the peninsula to Sorrento (or all the way to Naples), vow to return as soon as you can, and do your best not to compare everything else you ever see to Amalfi.


Second Place: $500 iExplore Travel Voucher
ASWAN BLUE - Phil Tarley

Aswan is a Nubian city in the south of Egypt, on the first cataract of the Nile. Here Agatha Christie wrote her murder story while she stayed in the Old Cataract Hotel. The O.C. is a stunning anachronism of colonial architecture that appears on the seared Nubian landscape like a mirage. It was built when Queen Victoria's realm extended out into Africa. It is the last vestige of the Raj. I come to the Old Cataract for cocktails at sunset. World class Martini's and British civility are served up with peanuts. The Cataract's bar teeters above the giant boulders, boulders so massive that they change the course of this giant river. Its a great place for day's end. The O.C. also has an English rose garden. The restaurant's great formal dining room is drop-dead other-worldly-magnificent. The food is first class, the music and decor is beautiful beyond words. But I can not afford to stay here as a guest.

I board down the Nile a piece in Aswan proper, near the docks. I fall into a daily pattern; up at four thirty in the morning; I dress and put my photo gear together. Then, for eight cents, I take an engine-powered ferry and cross the Nile. I sit knee to knee, the only white man in a boat filled with turbaned Nubian men; dressed in Galibeyas; garrulously Salaaming each other; waving with their walking sticks; friendly and quick-smiled. Aswan is the most African part of Egypt. It's heat only increases its exoticism.

As the sun rises I make my way through west bank villages shooting photos in the early morning light. The Nubian's paint their homes in rich mango's and deep dark blues. By nine o'clock, I go back to our air-conditioned hotel room and sleep for the rest of the day. Then, late in the afternoon, like the rest of Aswan, I too awaken. For it's only in the coolness of night that we can breathe here. The heat abates as we take our sunset diners on a Nile barge called the Aswan Moon. We eat grilled aubergine - eggplant - and tomato soup.

Tip #1 Adventure trekkers can book a two day sail down the Nile from Aswan to Luxor on a Fellluca, the same type boat the ancients adored. Nine passengers can sleep rough but sweet on the deck a for only $40 each, plus the food you bring.

Tip #2 This is a winter or spring destination, especially if you want to sail the Nile.

Tip #3 Aswan has a wonderful night time souk. Shop for authentic gold, silver and African craft works.

Tip #4 Aswan is a great jump off point to go south to Abu Simbal.

Tip #5 Save some money to drink and dine at the Old Cataract - you will feel like a royal.

Tip #6 There is a great overnight train from Cairo to Aswan - book a bed for $100.
 
Read more of the finalist's entries here.

Atlantic City is truly "Always turned on." Not only does this city have something for everyone, but it also has something for every hour of the day. Pegged as the "Vegas of the East," or "Vegas's little sister," this rap may be unfairly earned. With countless activities, restaurants, and things to see, you will leave thinking your trip was cut short. Just make sure you get extra sleep beforehand because that will be in short supply.

 

Gambling

Home to the second largest poker room in the city, the Trump Taj Mahal sets the standard for poker in Atlantic City. Featured in the movie Rounders, this is the perfect place to gamble the day away and build up your poker stack through the many different poker games they offer. If poker is not your niche, enjoy some of the other many games in their Indian themed 167,000 square foot casino.

 

Lodging

The boardwalk is a constant mix of activities, shopping and dinning. Located in the center of it

all, the Trump Taj Mahal has gorgeous ocean view rooms and houses great restaurants such as Safari Steak House and Dynasty. For one of the best rooms in the city, take advantage of the phenomenal recent renovation of the Golden Nugget (formerly the Trump Marina) located on the marina. Their new rooms are modern and luxurious in every aspect. Even the halls drool with the class hotels now so often forget.  As the rest of the Golden Nugget finishes the remaining renovations, get ready to be amazed with all levels of this resort. 

 

Night Life

There is no limit to variety of nightlife available in this energetic party mecca. The nightlife scene covers all aspects of entertainment and anyone can find their perfect spot. Sit back and have a drink while you watch the Almost Angels or any other number of shows constantly put on by the casinos and resorts.  Harrah's however has the party spot of Atlantic City and a trip here is not complete without visiting The Pool. Previously voted "Mega Club of the Year" by Nightclub & Bar Awards, the 172,000 square foot tropical entertainment complex is under a huge glass dome and is packed every weekend. With an 86,000 gallon pool and Jacuzzis throughout, masses of people mingle and dance through the numerous cabanas and around the pool side to famous DJs and frequent guest performers.

by Jonathan Jenkins, Contributing Author