
Image by J McDowell via Flickr
This is happening - right this very instant - on the Annapurna Circuit.
If you haven't hiked this incredible 17 day trekking route through Nepal's Himalayas,
don not delay. What once was an awe-inspiring walk through isolated
villages is increasingly becoming a magnet for anti-hikers; jeeps roar
up the western slope, carrying tourists too lazy to put one foot in
front of another. As you can imagine, these slopes become congested in
the afternoon, as Jeeps kick up dirt and gravel on hikers.
But fear not... for now.
The
eastern side remains relatively unscathed from the tourist boom. The
paths remain open to hikers, the people as charming as ever, and not a
Jeep in sight. The same goes for higher elevations on the western
side; for now, Jeeps only run up to Jomsom, which gives hikers three
full days of (almost) traffic-free trekking.
Hiking the Annapurna Circuit- What to See, What to Skip
The Annapurna Circuit is
connected by two river valleys: the eastern Marsyangdi, then down the
Kali Gandaki in the western slope. A recently completed road allows
jeeps and tour buses to drive up the Marsyangdi to the base of the pass.
Most trekkers prefer riding in jeeps than walking behind them, which as a results cuts the trekking time from 17 days down to 11. And with a road planned to run up the eastern slope, what was once the world's greatest trek will become a short, four-day hike.
It hurts to say this, but: trekkers may be better off with Jeeps.
My
wife and I completed the 17 day trek, and (no pun intended) the trip
goes significantly downhill from Jomsom. While mountain vistas remain
spectacular, the constant back-and-forth of jeeps and tour buses feel
more like walking a busy rural road than trekking. Which, of course, is
why most people flock here.
Therefore, my suggestion is as follows:
start in Khudi, and begin your hike counter-clockwise. Stop in Manang
for a mandatory acclimisation day, then go over the Thorong La Pass, and
down into Jomsom. From there, hop on a jeep and head either to Tatopani
(where you begin the hike up to Poon Hill) or to the end of trail,
where buses regularly leave for Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Sunrise
views from Poon Hill are renowned for their beauty; however, its easy
access make for a crowded visit. And if you've hiked for two weeks
already, you can't help but wonder what all the fuss is about.
I've
heard older travelers lament the loss of idyllic destinations
(Thailand, Bahamas, Goa, etc.) and perhaps I've even seen places change
over time as word spread. But never - in all my travels - have I seen a
location in such transition. You can almost see "progress" increase day
by day.
Of course, this is only one viewpoint. How do local residents feel about such aggressive growth?
The
answers I heard appeared directly related to financial interests.
Obviously, hotel operators, tour guides, and porters are thrilled with
increased exposure and business.
Well, actually... they aren't.
In fact, tour operators are against it, because they know the road will kill their business (or at least reduce the need for guides).
But what about locals with no vested interest? What do they think?
The truth is, nearly everyone - besides tour operators - are excited about the road. It opens up their world, even if it does close the book on a world-class trekking experience.
As an ardent traveler, I understand locals should have the first and last word about their infrastructure. And it most cases, it's the right thing to do...
...but in cases where beautiful, cultural places are picked clean by the tourist trail, is it really the right answer?
Travelers, take heed: the Annapurna Circuit remains one of the best treks in the world. But for how long?
by Adam Costa, Guest Blogger
About the Author: Adam Costa (Twitter: @MrAdamCosta) is a travel writer and author of Business In A Backpack, which shows how to travel the world and run a profitable business.






Good thing the himalayas has no typhoons. I bet it would be hard to live there if there were typhoons.
hello Lauren, thanks for this revealing post. You really started a fire inside me with this hiking review of Annapurna. I wish I could see some pics of that route.
An absolutely captivating blog with glorious images. It is wonderful that you were able to share this with your father; you are very fortunate that he shares your passion for exploration and adventure, he seems a remarkable man.